Printing Your Own Game Props: Beginner’s Guide to 3D Printing Miniatures and Accessories

Stop guessing — print the minis and tabletop gear you actually want

If you've ever scrolled marketplaces, hit out-of-stock notices, or bought a fragile painted mini that didn't match the picture, 3D printing puts control back in your hands. This beginner’s start-to-finish guide walks UK gamers through choosing a printer, picking filament or resin, prepping files, tuning printer settings, and finishing prints so they’re display- or tabletop-ready in 2026.

Quick summary: the fastest route to playable minis

For most gamers focused on miniatures, a modern MSLA resin printer gives the best detail and fastest path to high-quality figures. If you want terrain, bases, or robust accessories, FDM/filament printers are cheaper to run and tougher in play. Expect to use both technologies in tandem: resin for characters, filament for scenery and holders.

What you'll walk away with

• How to pick resin vs filament for specific projects
• Step-by-step print prep and slicer tips
• Practical troubleshooting and maintenance advice
• Post-processing methods: washing, curing, sanding, priming, painting, sealing
• A UK-focused starter kit and buying checklist

Why 3D print minis and accessories in 2026

Late 2024–early 2026 saw three changes that matter to gamers: cheap, reliable resin MSLA hardware went mainstream; slicers added AI tools for automated supports and hollowing; and water-washable resins plus better filtration made home use easier and safer. That means faster time-to-table, cleaner workflows, and better results even on budget machines.

Pro tip: If your primary goal is finely-detailed character models for painting, start with an MSLA resin printer. If you need big, durable scenery pieces, start with FDM filament.

Resin vs filament — choose by project, not hype

Resin (MSLA/DLP): best for miniatures

Strengths: extraordinary detail, smooth surfaces, excellent for 28–32mm scaled figures. Print resolution commonly 0.01–0.05mm per layer with current monochrome screens, letting sculpt lines and tiny features come through cleanly.

Weaknesses: more post-processing (wash & cure), resin can be brittle depending on the formula, requires PPE and ventilation, and running costs are higher per print than filament.

Typical uses: character minis, small accessories, display pieces, resin cast masters for moulding.

Filament (FDM): best for terrain & durable accessories

Strengths: tough finished parts, wide material options (PLA, PLA+, PETG, TPU, ABS), cheaper per-gram, simpler cleanup. Good for large scenery, bases, components like tray inserts or weapon racks.

Weaknesses: visible layer lines unless sanded/smoothed, limited fine detail compared with resin, small thin parts can fail.

Typical uses: terrain tiles, modular boards, 3D-printed bases, utility items (token holders, dice towers).

Resin types to know (2026 updates)

• Standard high-detail resin – Best for mini faces and sculpt details.
• Durable/impact-resistant resin – Better for handled accessories and articulated parts.
• Flexible resin – For straps, thin flexible bits, and soft details.
• Water-washable resins – Cleaner workflow, avoid large volumes of isopropyl alcohol; still follow disposal safety.

Filament materials at a glance

• PLA – Easy, low-warp; great for beginners and display models.
• PLA+ – Improved toughness, less brittle than standard PLA.
• PETG – Good balance between strength and printability.
• ABS/ASA – Heat-resistant, better for outdoor terrain; needs an enclosure.
• TPU – Flexible filament for movable parts and grips.

Which printer should a beginner buy in 2026?

Buy to match your primary use. In 2026 you can get competent budget MSLA printers with monochrome screens and reliable drivers for under £250 from reputable brands and marketplaces. FDM printers with CoreXY motion and auto-bed levelling are common at similar price points. Prioritise these features:

• For resin: monochrome MSLA screen, 4K or higher for fine details, sealed lid with carbon filtration (or add a filter), reliable Z-axis lead screw.
• For filament: auto bed leveling, direct drive if you plan flexible filaments, enclosed print area for ABS/ASA, heated bed to reduce warping.
• Both: active community support, UK or EU stock if you prefer local warranty and quicker returns.

Marketplaces like AliExpress and direct brand stores now often maintain EU/UK warehouses — great for lower prices and fast shipping — but always check seller feedback and warranty coverage before buying.

Design and 3D modelling: prepare or create STL files

Start with an idea: a character pose, a banner, or a custom base. Your options:

• Download ready-made STLs from licensed marketplaces or community hubs.
• Modify existing files with Blender or Meshmixer.
• Create original sculpts using Blender, ZBrush Core, or beginner tools like Tinkercad.
• Use photogrammetry or 3D scanning for prop conversions.

Important modelling steps: set target scale (e.g., 28mm heroic scale), check wall thickness, hollow models to save resin (with escape holes), and split multipart models for printing orientation and easier supports. In 2026 most slicers include AI-assisted hollowing and automatic escape-hole suggestions — use them but verify manually.

Print prep: slicing, orientation, and supports

Resin slicing tips for minis

• Layer height: 0.02–0.05 mm for miniatures — 0.025mm is a sweet spot.
• Orientation: tilt models at 30–45° to reduce layer lines and support points on visible areas. Avoid laying the whole model flat on the build plate.
• Supports: use fine supports on facial details but place anchors on less visible areas. In 2026 AI support generation can often be a good starting point — then prune manually.
• Hollowing: hollow larger sculpts to save resin; maintain 2–3mm wall thickness and add drainage/vent holes.
• Bottom layers & exposure: set enough bottom layers and exposure time to ensure adhesion but not so much that removal becomes difficult; follow your resin + printer combo’s recommended starting exposure.

FDM slicing tips for accessories & terrain

• Nozzle size: 0.25–0.4mm for a balance of detail and print speed; smaller nozzles gain detail but lengthen prints.
• Layer height: 0.12–0.2mm for crisp small features; 0.2–0.3mm for large terrain pieces.
• Retraction: tune to reduce stringing—typical starting point 1–5mm at 40–60mm/s for Bowden setups; lower for direct drive.
• Print speed: 30–50mm/s for small detailed parts; faster for big flat terrain.
• Infill & walls: use higher wall/perimeter counts on small parts for strength (2–4 perimeters) and low infill for terrain to save filament.

Printer settings cheat sheet (starter values)

• Resin (MSLA): layer 0.025 mm, lift height 6–8mm, lift speed 40–60mm/min, bottom layers 4–8 with higher exposure.
• FDM (PLA): nozzle 0.4mm, layer 0.12–0.2 mm, nozzle temp 200–210°C, bed 50–60°C, print speed 40mm/s, retraction 3–5mm.
• FDM (PETG): nozzle 240–250°C, bed 70–80°C, slower fan cooling, stronger first layer adhesion.

Printing: watch points and common failures

Even with tuned settings, things can go wrong. Here’s how to diagnose quickly:

• Resin fails to stick to build plate: re-level or recalibrate Z-zero, increase bottom exposure, ensure the build plate is clean and roughened a bit if new.
• Peeling layers in resin prints: decrease lift speed, adjust anti-aliasing settings, move orientation to reduce suction forces.
• FDM warping: increase bed temperature, use brim/raft, ensure enclosure for ABS/ASA.
• Stringing (FDM): increase retraction distance/speed or lower hotend temperature slightly.
• Layer shifts: check belts and pulleys for tightness, ensure no obstruction to motion, and avoid printing at extreme speeds.

Post-processing: wash, cure, remove supports, and finish

Good post-processing elevates each print from a raw object to a hobby-ready miniature.

Resin post-processing (step-by-step)

1. Washing: use isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or water-washable resin setup. In 2026 water-washable resins reduce IPA needs — still use gloves and filter wash water before disposal.
2. Remove supports: cut supports with flush cutters while the resin is still slightly tacky but after a quick wash for cleaner removal.
3. Curing: fully cure under a UV lamp or sunlight for the recommended time—over-curing can make resin brittle; under-curing leaves tacky areas.
4. Sanding/filing: start with 240–400 grit, finish with 800–2000 grit for smooth faces. Use a needle file set for small crevices.
5. Priming: apply a fine-surface primer (spray or airbrush) to reveal defects and provide paint adhesion.

FDM post-processing

1. Remove supports and sand seam lines. Use filler primer on visible layer lines and re-sand.
2. For ABS, acetone vapour smoothing is an option if you have a safe, controlled setup.
3. Prime and paint using hobby acrylics. Resin and PLA accept the same primers and paints, but do a test spot first.

Painting and sealing

Use thin layers of acrylics (Vallejo, Citadel, etc.). For realistic metal or weathering effects, use washes, drybrushing, and pigments. Seal paints with matte, satin, or gloss varnish depending on the desired finish.

Advanced finishing techniques

• Pinning: drill and insert metal pins for strong joins on multipart models.
• Magnets: embed small neodymium magnets for swappable weapons and accessories. See ideas for micro gift bundles and small add-ons here.
• Basing: texture bases with sand, slate, and flock; use resin to create water features or gloss varnish for puddles.

Safety, maintenance & UK-specific considerations

PPE & ventilation: always use nitrile gloves when handling uncured resin, goggles if you're sanding cured resin, and run resin printers in well-ventilated areas or with an air purifier and carbon filter. Many modern printers include HEPA+carbon filtration for resin fumes — recommended for home use.

Disposal: cured resin is inert and can be disposed of with general waste where local rules allow; uncured resin and contaminated wash fluid need to be processed — check UK waste regulations or use municipal hazardous waste services.

Electrical & regulatory: buy from reputable sellers and check warranty and UK/EU compliance (CE/UKCA marks) if that’s important to you. Buying from UK/EU warehouses often simplifies returns and VAT handling.

Troubleshooting checklist (fast fixes)

• First layer won’t stick (FDM): clean bed, re-level, use adhesive like glue stick or PEI sheet.
• Resin prints detach/peel: adjust orientation, increase bottom exposure, slow lift speeds.
• Stringing (FDM): lower temp, increase retraction, slow travel moves.
• Soft or tacky cured resin: extend cure time and check your UV source (wavelength matters).

Starter kit checklist for UK gamers (buying guide)

• Resin MSLA printer with monochrome screen and UK warranty
• Wash & cure station (or separate IPA wash and UV cure lamp)
• PPE: nitrile gloves, eye protection, nitrile apron recommended
• Filament printer (optional) for terrain and accessories
• Tools: flush cutters, fine needle files, silicone spatula, hobby knife, pin vise, drill bits
• Consumables: resin (standard & durable), PLA/PLA+, sandpaper (240–2000), primer, hobby acrylic paints, varnish
• Magnets & metal pins for conversions and secure joins

2026 trends to watch

• AI-assisted workflows: automatic hollowing, auto-support placement, and detail enhancement built into slicers reduce trial-and-error times. Read a cautionary take on how to use AI in workflows at Why AI Shouldn’t Own Your Strategy.
• Larger, faster MSLA plates: bigger build volumes at better resolutions let you print batches of minis in one go.
• Eco-friendly filaments and water-wash resins: greener materials and cleaner wash workflows ease hobby environmental impact.
• Integration with tabletop ecosystems: expect certified STL marketplaces offering licensed miniatures and legal use packs tailored for home printing.

Quick workflow checklist (one-page)

1. Choose project & file: verify scale and wall thickness.
2. Hollow & add escape holes (resin) or split multi-part models.
3. Slicer settings: set layer height, supports, orientation, and de-risk with a small test print.
4. Print while monitoring first layers and early resin adhesion.
5. Post-process: wash, cure, remove supports, sand, prime, and paint.
6. Seal, magnetize/pin, and base the mini for tabletop use.

Final tips from experienced hobbyists

Start small: print a single test miniature at your chosen settings before committing to a whole army or large terrain piece. This saves time and materials.

Keep a print log: track resin batches, exposure times, and slicer versions. Over time you'll build a reliable library of presets for your favourite materials and printers.

Join the community: UK and global hobby forums, Discord groups, and local wargaming clubs share STL tweaks, print profiles, and troubleshooting help. Most printers have active user groups where settings for specific resin + printer combos are shared daily.

Ready to start printing?

Printing your own minis and accessories is one of the most rewarding upgrades a gamer can make. You’ll save money, unlock customisation, and create show-stopping pieces for the table. If you want a ready-made starting point, check our curated starter kits, or download the printable checklist and profile presets for common printers — tested by our team in late 2025 and updated for early 2026.

Call to action: Browse our 3D printing starter kits, pick the right printer for your goals, and join our monthly workshop where we walk through a complete resin mini from STL to painted combat-ready model.

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